One of my favorite mixed drinks is a 2-to-1 Plymouth martini with three olives. (Always ask for odd-numbered garnishes, friends–even numbered garnishes are bad luck.) But I’ve never liked dirty martinis–I like getting a hint of salty olive brine in the dregs of the drink, but no more than that. And I like a Bloody Mary, but only on airplanes for some reason. Otherwise ‘savory’ drinks aren’t for me. (My best friend once remarked that my preferred flavor profile for alcoholic drinks was ‘paint thinner and licorice’ and I stand by that). Needless to say I was both a little disgusted and darkly fascinated when I learned that savory cocktails are apparently on the rise. If you have a delicate stomach, there are stormy waters ahead–proceed with caution. I’m about to spoil your appetite.
Savory are drinks becoming popular because of mocktails(?): Margaret Eby, deputy food editor at the Philadelphia Inquirer, believes that increased interest in savory cocktails is directly connected to the growing popularity of mocktails. “The feedback is that every non-alcoholic standard drink that you get is really sweet,” says Eby, who jokingly refers to some savory cocktails as “hard soups.” She points out that many staple cocktail ingredients, like fruit juices and simple syrups, normally have their sweet flavors offset by alcohol. But when you cut out the vodka or whiskey, the sweetness stands out a lot more.
Beef, mushrooms, and corn husks in drinks: Hong Kong bar The Savory Project, which opened in May 2023, celebrates a range of ingredients not typically spotted on cocktail menus, such as beef jerky and corn husks. “We’re not shy of using ingredients that are not common in drinks,” explains co-owner Jay Khan. “For example, using beef, using different types of fungi, like mushrooms and stuff. We play around with whatever we can think of and then try and replicate that into a drink.”
NYC hotspot Double Chicken Please has a savory cocktail “back room” section: In the back room, nine core cocktails are listed on the menu broken down into three sections: “appetizers,” “main courses,” and “desserts,” just like a food menu. In the first group, there are drinks inspired by Waldorf salad and Japanese cold noodles; in the middle section there’s a cocktail called Cold Pizza that contains parmesan cheese.
Double Chicken Please has a cocktail with gravy in it: One of the menu’s standout items is something that Tako Chang, Double Chicken Please’s manager of brand marketing and communications, calls a “reverse pairing.” Red Eye Gravy is inspired by the popular Southern meal of country ham with gravy poured on top. But here, the roles are switched: the gravy – in this case, a mix of Irish whisky, coffee, butter and mushroom – is the centerpiece, while a piece of prosciutto is just a garnish instead of the star.
Not to get too salty (I couldn’t resist) but this is some malarkey. Tomfoolery. Bamboozlement. When it comes to cocktails I am a big fan of the very old school drinks, and I mean, like, 1856 kind of old school. Looking through old cocktail books (or a compilation of historical recipes like David Wondrich’s landmark, essential book Imbibe), you see people trying things out and making some weird cocktails. But you almost never see recipes from that time that use beef broth or other savory things. I think that’s for a reason. I think some frontiers ought not to be crossed. This also reminds me of that new olive oil coffee that Starbucks is trying to make happen. I think it’s going over about as well as “New Coke” did. Innovation has its time and place but when it comes to food and drink, I’d rather experience a simple thing done well, than something primarily designed to get headlines. And while I agree that most mocktails are way too sweet, I don’t believe there is a genuine demand for savory mocktails at this point beyond, say, a virgin Bloody Mary. Also I LOLed at “reverse pairing.” It sounds like a euphemism for…something.
The Oleato drinks from Starbucks are apparently delicious. I’m not a huge coffee drinker (tea is my morning beverage of choice) but everyone I know who has tried the drinks say they are good. But they all have preference: some either like the cold options. Some like the hot. My brother’s personal fave is the cold brew with the olive oil foam on top. Apparently the olive oil works well with the natural nuttiness of the coffee. This was a complete tangent, but since I don’t drink alcohol this is all I could contribute to the convo lol.
I appreciate your tangent! I was wondering what those things taste like, from regular people, not people paid to review food and beverages.
Still not going to try one, though. I will never understand the appeal of adding another fat to what is probably already a drink loaded with sugar and fat.
There’s actually a scientific reason why people have different drink preferences during flights, particularly for things like ginger ale or tomato juice. The air in the cabin is significantly dryer than in any other place on land, which impairs our sense of taste and smell. Therefore, things with a much stronger flavour shine through while other more subtle flavours taste less appetising.
Huh, that’s interesting. I don’t drink Gin and tonics that often but randomly like them on a plane. I used to hate them but a friend once said it’s refreshing and like drinking a pine tree. Which was weird but kind of true and the weirdness of it had me giving it another chance.
That’s exactly why I hate gin, lol. The pine tree scent/flavor is too much!! My husband loves it, though, and is also a committed Bloody mary afficionado. I bet he’d give at least one of these “savory cocktails” a try. I will stick with something fruity and sweet. The farthest I’ll get away from that is a glass of Sauvignon Blanc (always California, never New Zealand because I don’t like drinking grass) or a vodka and soda with lemon on the rocks (because it is hot AF in Texas and that is refreshing.)
I’m one of those people! I always have ginger ale on planes, I had no idea there was science behind it.
Most of the Bloody Marys in MD always involves olives, Old Bay and Bacon. Mrs Shirley’s is known for these classics
Now, admittedly, I cannot stand too-sweet cocktails; a Negroni has been my default for years. Having a jumbo shrimp or beef rib in your Bloody Mary can be transformative, and the newer smoked cocktails (think Manhattan) are a delight. But the rest of this just sounds gimmicky and unappealing. End notes.
It’s a resounding “NO” for me, dawg. All this makes me think of is SNL’s old “Crystal Gravy” ad, and that’s enough to turn me off. (I will, however, happily join Carina in some licorice-flavored cocktails—my favorite!!)
You might like a Corpse Reviver No. 2. It starts with an absinthe rinse, which gives it that sharpness of anise/licorice. Other ingredients include dry gin, lemon juice, Cointreau, and Lillet Blanc. You’ll need to use the rest of the Lillet Blanc within a few days, so you can also make a Vesper Martini.
Yummy.
I’d be all over this stuff (I’ve had so many bourbon cocktails with a bacon garnish and they’re always so so good).
The best Bloody Mary I’ve ever had included soy sauce, and wasabi, and it was…a m a z i n g.
But then I’ve always preferred savory over sweet.
I would try those drinks. I don’t like sweet drinks, one reason why I always drank a bold red wines. One bar close to me makes a pretty good cucumber martini that is good on a hot day, but I always tell them to just wave the simple sugar over it instead of pouring it in. lol
But I’m also not a straight up bourbon or whiskey drinker, so I think these savory drinks would be up my alley. And that beet one looks pretty.
About the only way I’d ingest a beet salad is in an alcoholic drink, so I’d definitely try that. As for the rest, no thanks. Rum & Diet Coke is it for me.
I love a good savory cocktail, lol.
My favourite one is a Horseradish Caesar with a bacon strip, pickle spear and celery.
I’d have a Caesar! 😉